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[personal profile] poliphilo
On Saturday- another dull and dreepy day- we went to Lacock. You'll know it if you're a fan of BBC costume drama. They filmed Moll Flanders, Cranford and the definitive Pride and Prejudice here. Then there's the Abbey. That's where they filmed scenes from the first two Harry Potter movies.

But the place's greatest claim to fame is that it was the home of William Fox Talbot, one of the three founding fathers of photography. There was Niepce- who was the first to fix an image, Daguerre, who, building on Niepce's work, invented the beautiful dead-end that is the Daguerreotype and Fox Talbot who, working quite independently, discovered a method of fixing images that was much quicker than Niepce's and unlocked the potential of the photographic negative. As a photographer myself, I regard Lacock as holy ground.

Fox Talbot wasn't only a photographic pioneer, but a man with wide-ranging interests- scientific, literary and political. He was, for instance,  one of only two Englishmen in his generation who could read cuneiform. He makes me feel small.

There isn't a house in Lacock that's later than the 19th century, and most are older. The very oldest, now a tea room- where I had Wiltshire rarebit with plum chutney and Ailz had a sort of cinnamon teacake called a Lacock Lumb- claims to be King John's Hunting Lodge- and I see no reason to doubt it.

The abbey is a real abbey, more specifically a nunnery- with an intact monastic cloister and Tudor and 19th century gothick add-ons. It's a beautiful house. 

A Chinese bride in her wedding dress was being photographed in the cloisters by her husband who was also dressed in his wedding gear. They'd been married in Hong Kong and had travelled all the way to England, with their wedding clothes in their luggage, to pose for photographs in romantic locations. Isn't that sweet! 









After leaving Lacock we asked Jane the Sat-Nav to take us to see something prehistoric. First she took us to a farm track with no public right of way; then she took us to a roadside hedge we couldn't see over. Desperate to end the day on a high note I settled for the nearest church.  And here it is, St George's Preshote- a Victorian rebuild with a 15th century tower. Preshote is a contraction of Prestes Hotte- Priest's Hut.



It's a lonely church- down a narrow lane in a field beside the river. In the porch I found this fragment from the old church- a woman's head- and another medieval masterpiece. Medieval art is seriously undervalued, I think. We'll miss it when it's gone.



 

Date: 2009-08-03 05:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rosamicula.livejournal.com
Lovely pics and good to read about Lacock. i used to have boyfriend in Melksham so used to know that area quite well.

Date: 2009-08-03 06:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
Thanks. We missed out on Melksham. Next time maybe?

Date: 2009-08-03 06:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wyrmwwd.livejournal.com
Do you consider Eastman to be one of the other 3 founding fathers? I used to live in Rochester, NY, and visited his house many times.

Date: 2009-08-03 06:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
Eastman came along later- after photography was well established. He did great things, but I wouldn't call him a founding father.

Date: 2009-08-03 06:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] karenkay.livejournal.com
St. George's Preshote gives me a serious case of cognitive dissonance. So the church itself is NEW(ish), but the tower is old? I would have guessed otherwise. Whatever, they are seriously mismatched.

Date: 2009-08-03 06:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
I saw the flintwork and immediately thought, "this is an old church". I'm not usually wrong, but St. George's fooled me.

Date: 2009-08-03 06:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pondhopper.livejournal.com
Did you go inside St Cyriac's church in Lacock? The Lady Chapel there is particularly fine with its remnants of ornate detail.
Just about the entire village is owned by the National Trust, I think.

Date: 2009-08-03 07:33 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
I did, but I missed the Lady Chapel. Rats!

You're right, the lord or lady of the manor gave the whole boiling to the Trust in the 1940s, I think.

Date: 2009-08-03 09:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] saare-snowqueen.livejournal.com
Those are beautiful carvings. We have a few churches here on the island, built in the 14th century by the Teutonic Knights that have very fine carvings from the period. My favourite has Christ on the cross with the 2 robbers flanking him. Thinking about it, it's amazing that the soviets didn't destroy or deface them.

The vaulting in that Cloister us absolutely gorgeous.

Date: 2009-08-04 08:12 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
I guess the Soviets were thwarted, as our Reformers were, by the sheer bulk of stuff that needed destroying.

The cloisters are where they filmed scenes from the Harry Potter films.

Date: 2009-08-03 11:15 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jackiejj.livejournal.com
Wonderful photographs. The old faces are fascinating.

How I envy you the places you can visit, and so close by!

(Hi, Ailz-of-the-Rock!)

Date: 2009-08-04 08:14 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
The lady reminds me of the famous bust of Nefertiti- which is similarly beautiful and inscrutable.

Ailz says "Hi".

Date: 2009-08-04 11:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] shewhomust.livejournal.com
Lacock sounds wonderful. I shall add it to my list of Places to Visit.

Date: 2009-08-05 12:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] poliphilo.livejournal.com
It's highly recommended.

There are lots of craft shops too.

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