A Hurried Visit To Warwick
Jul. 22nd, 2008 10:24 amThe wedding was in Southampton, which if you travel in a straight line from here, heading South, is as far as you can go without hiring a boat. We stopped off in Warwick- for no better reason than we'd never been there before- to eat a hurried picnic lunch and (of course) visit the church. Ailz didn't like the church because there was no provision for wheelchair users and there were people on the door intimidating you into making a donation. It's very handsome. It was partly burned out in the 18th century and- though Christopher Wren submitted a plan- the commission to rebuild went to a man called Wilson who pulled off an eccentric but impressive design that dresses up a wild gothic idea with respectable Graeco-Roman detail. The Eastern part of the church survived the fire and is full of wonderful things- mainly tombs. Fulke Greville- the gay Elizabethan poet who was murdered by his boyfriend/manservant and whose playful spirit haunts the "Ghost Tower" at Warwick Castle- has a great, slabby thing that takes up most of the floor space in the little medieval chapter house and the remarkable Beauchamp Chapel is full of dukes and earls.
Most notably- or famously- there's Elizabeth I's favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester- who lies here with Lettice, the wife of his old age, who outlived him by 46 years.
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Date: 2008-07-22 11:04 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-07-22 11:59 am (UTC)Madame Tussauds in Warwick Castle - double yuk!
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Date: 2008-07-22 12:20 pm (UTC)Here in Philadelphia, we are members of a small congregation in a large church edifice, so I have some experience with struggling to be good stewards of a building we can't afford. If we had to pay for the staff and the infrastructure to support a gaggle of sightseers on top of that, we'd be out of business and a beautiful piece of 19th century American vernacular architecture (containing some 19th century engineering marvels) would fall to the wrecker's ball, to be replaced with condos or some such.
I know that the Church of England is the "established church," but I don't know what kind of subsidies it gets to maintain the edifices that get all that traffic.
Every so often I read a pronouncement from the Dean of Westminster Abbey that suggests that he's positively hostile to the distraction of running a tourist attraction when he actually wants to minister to the souls of his congregation.
Warwick Castle has been heavily "restored," has it not? The Richard III Society's display from the Olivier Theatre foyer (placed there to coincide with the Ian McKellen run) was at Warwick for awhile, but it eventually began to show its age, or so I'm told. We never made it to Warwick, preferring the brooding ruins of Middleham and the gentle mound that was Fotheringhay (and the beautiful tower of its semi-redundant church).
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Date: 2008-07-22 01:01 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-07-22 03:04 pm (UTC)I am a local tourism guide here on my island and one of the loveliest of the 13th century stone churches here is in Karja. Unfortunately it is guarded by a gorgon who demands payment before allowing groups to enter. She is so unpleasant that I go out of my way to take my groups to other of the island's historic churches where we are received more graciously.
As for Warwick Castle - the word's operated by Tussauds says all there is to say.
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Date: 2008-07-28 01:03 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-07-22 12:57 pm (UTC)It's always wealthy churches in wealthy towns that do this- churches that must already enjoy an above average income.
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Date: 2008-07-22 01:30 pm (UTC)Those desks are personed by volunteers in many cases. I suspect they'd not disapprove of someone pushing a wheelchair missing the donation box. They'd assume you have your hands full, both literally and metaphorically.
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Date: 2008-07-22 03:16 pm (UTC)