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I was wrong about the St Nicholas. It's not the high Victorian building that looks like a Loire chateau; that's The Grand. No, the St Nicholas is the Georgian- and really rather more tasteful- building on the other side of the square. Our bedroom had a fine view of The Grand and the coaches that were almost always lined up at its door. If we looked sideways we could also see the sea- and on our first morning the sun rising out of it into a cloudless sky.

I had convinced myself we'd stayed at the Grand back in the 90s but I was wrong. This time we had the chance to (it's very cheap) but Ruth has reasons for not wanting to put money in the pocket of the guy who owns it- so we didn't....

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