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The next day (Wednesday) it rained and rained and rained- and the car got filthy from bumping over unimportant Exmoor roads. We were going to Ilfracombe, where we had  booked into a dispiriting family hotel which Ailz immediately christened "Lurch's Place". Actually it wasn't so bad; there was a time when all English hotels were similarly dank and gloomy. Besides, it was cheap.

Ilfracombe is lively- and the north Devon coast spectacular. The Landmark Theatre - which is built to look like a couple of sandcastles side by side- has a cafe where they serve really good sandwiches.

in the evening the sun came out and we drove along the coast and were glad we'd come after all.




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